Greccio

The True Italian Christmas Tradition: Nativity Scenes in Greccio

The most important Italian Christmas tradition isn’t the food, Santa Claus, or even the Christmas tree - it’s the nativity scene. Christmas in Italy is celebrated with family, and the nativity scene is almost always part of the festivities in one way or another.

It might be easy to imagine a nativity scene as something casually placed on grandma’s sideboard, gathering dust during the holidays. However, Italians—and especially the residents of Grecci - have taken this tradition to an entirely different level. Greccio has declared itself the Nativity Capital of Italy, and for good reason: it was here, in December 1223, that Saint Francis of Assisi staged the very first live nativity scene in a cave near the Greccio Sanctuary.

Greccio is a small village perched high on a mountainside, close to the town of Rieti. Recognized as one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, it proudly holds a place on the Uno dei Borghi Più Belli d’Italia list. Visiting Greccio in December is especially rewarding. The village hosts a charming Christmas market, where artisans sell handcrafted nativity-themed items, perfect for your own nativity display. Not in the mood to shop? You can sip on a warm glass of vin brûlé (mulled wine) or visit the Nativity Museum. Be prepared for lines, though—this is a popular spot during the holidays!

If museums aren’t your thing, the live nativity scene in Greccio offers a spectacular alternative. Hundreds of people gather in a massive amphitheater during the Christmas season to witness the story of Jesus’ birth brought to life in a captivating reenactment. It’s a powerful experience that makes the nativity story tangible and unforgettable.

In Greccio, nativity scenes are everywhere. The locals display them outside their homes for visitors to admire, and the village church houses multiple beautifully crafted scenes.

If you think nativity displays are just an odd Italian quirk, consider this: the Pope himself has visited Greccio to marvel at its nativity scenes, arriving by helicopter. If the Pope is impressed, chances are you will be too!

So, this Christmas, I challenge everyone to create their own nativity display and embrace this beautiful tradition.

Greccio is easily accessible from Rome, making it a fantastic day trip for those wanting to experience an authentic Italian Christmas tradition.

• By Train: Take a regional train from Rome's Termini Station to Terni, then transfer to a local train heading to Rieti. From Rieti, buses are available to Greccio, or you can take a taxi for a more direct route.
• By Car: Driving is the easiest way to reach Greccio. From Rome, follow the A1 Autostrada north toward Florence and exit at Orte, then continue on the SS675 and SS79 toward Rieti. From Rieti, follow signs to Greccio. The drive takes about 1.5 hours and offers scenic views of the countryside.
• By Guided Tour: During the holiday season, some tour companies offer organized trips to Greccio, including transport, a guide, and often stops at nearby attractions.

No matter how you arrive, Greccio is sure to enchant you with its deep-rooted history, breathtaking views, and magical nativity tradition.