Leaving Rome Fiumicino Airport, the drive is straightforward. The road starts as a wide, multi-lane highway that soon becomes the Grande Raccordo Anulare (G.R.A.), Rome’s ring road. Always opt for the G.R.A. when possible -it is the fastest route. Even if traffic slows, it’s still the best choice. Locals trying to avoid jams often clog nearby smaller roads, so patience pays off. Most traffic snarls clear up within 20-30 minutes, after which you can resume your drive, perhaps trailing behind a Maserati or Ferrari.
When returning to the airport, factor in possible traffic delays, as there are few viable alternatives to the G.R.A.
Italy’s highways are toll roads, generally in excellent condition, and relatively easy to navigate. The driving culture, while faster-paced than in many countries, operates nolt so clear rules. Stick to the right lane for slower traffic if you like and use the left lane if you are confident. Drivers behind you may flash their headlights if you linger in the left lane. In case of sudden slowdowns, it’s customary to activate your hazard lights. Expect to pay about €5 per 100 km in tolls for the privilege of smooth highways.
Surviving driving in Rome
Driving in central Rome is an experience like no other, combining chaos with its own peculiar logic. At first glance, the traffic may seem anarchic, but once you adapt to its rhythm, it can even become enjoyable.
A few tips for navigating the Eternal City’s streets:
Fines are most likely if you inadvertently enter a Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL) or drive in a bus or taxi lane. These infractions result in a mailed ticket—an unwelcome souvenir of your trip. Parking in Rome can be a challenge; street parking near the city center is a rarity, but parking garages like Parcheggio Piazza Cavour or Parcheggio Saba near Piazza di Spagna offer convenient options.
A Scenic but Wild Ride on Via Salaria
Heading toward the rolling hills of Sabina, the G.R.A. transitions into the A45 highway and then merges with the infamous Via Salaria. This ancient Roman road winds through mountains and villages, offering breathtaking views but also demanding your full attention.
Via Salaria is notorious for its unpredictability, making it both thrilling and nerve-wracking. On this road, you might encounter:
While Via Salaria technically has two lanes, locals seem to find room for four cars side by side. Overtaking on blind curves is routine, and the roadside is peppered with too many flowers and memorials commemorating tragic accidents.
As you leave Via Salaria and head into smaller village roads, the pace becomes more relaxed—but surprises still abound. Watch for wandering cows, and take road signs about livestock seriously. If you’re stopped by carabinieri wielding rifles, don’t panic—it’s routine.
Parking in Sabina’s villages, especially on Sundays, can be a competitive sport. City dwellers flood into the countryside for family lunches, making the hunt for a space near the centro storico especially fierce. Sometimes, you’ll have to accept defeat and carry your groceries up the hill to your destination.
Despite the challenges, there’s something deeply rewarding about driving through this beautiful landscape. The contrasts—from the efficient modern highways to the chaotic charm of ancient village roads—offer a unique and unforgettable slice of Italian life.
How to Reach Sabina from Rome